HS3

I recently ordered a bottle of the super limited edition Reve en Cuir by Indult and have been enjoying it immensely. Indult created this warm leather scent exclusively for Scent Bar, the brick and mortar store for Luckyscent.com in Los Angeles. When I first sampled it, I found it thin and a bit sweeter than I’d expected, but that was merely from a few swipes from the 1ml vial. Once it came time for me to pay it the attention it deserved with a full wear using an atomizer, it became a completely different animal. What once seemed too sweet and modest had become a voluptuous, rich leather. So, I sold a few unwanted bottles so I wouldn’t feel so bad about the cost, and a bottle was happily on its way to me. The GF told me that most leathers I have are authoritatively sophisticated and have great presence, but aren’t necessarily sexy. This one, she exclaimed, is far from the rest of the crowd. I think my leather genre is now complete.

Here are some photos of the packaging and unpacking it:

…and a few glamour shots…

I’m wearing Diptyque Ofrésia today. My interpretation of it is a gorgeously lush, green floral that smells of crushed green stems, cool wet freesia, and sparkling citrus oils from the zest of rinds. Well, first thing this morning, a coworker came into my office and said “Hmm, it smells like cleaning supplies in here.” Of course, my retort of “No it doesn’t” was a shining example of my brilliant debate skills in action. At least he didn’t say it smelled like cleaning supplies were needed.
Now, I’m not too concerned that I smell like cleaning supplies today since this is a guy who offers pretty amusing comments like that on a regular basis. He doesn’t generally figure out that someone is wearing a fragrance and just assumes it’s something in the air. An example – a girl that works in the building wears something candied and chocolatey. If she’s in my office and he comes in, he’ll declare that something smells like cookies and looks around the room, possibly in search of a plate of baked goods that is never there.

MDCI offers perhaps the best sample program of any I’ve seen. It’s not cheap by any means, but you get more than your money’s worth. I recently purchased the 7 fragrance sample set from them and couldn’t be more pleased with the level of service and the pleasure of dealing with the owner, Claude Marchal. For 77 euros, you can choose 7 of the 9 fragrances from the collection (the 7 set was only recently added… used to only be able to get 5). Being in the US, the VAT is dropped, but is replaced by the cost of shipping. You can order through paypal from this page.

The samples are huge – I would estimate 10+ ml in each, judging from how much they filled 15ml spray bottles I put them in. The amount of perfume that you’re able to experience with the set is an incredible deal considering the cost of a bottle.

The box for the 5 sample set appears to have been made specifically for 5 of the small flacons, but this one seems to have perhaps been made for something else, and used for the 7 sample set. Nonetheless, they come neatly wrapped and arranged in a nice quality box, with a card from Claude. Photos of the 5 sample set can be seen on Nathan Branch’s blog.

The threaded bottle size is actually a standard size that I’ve found fits sprayers purchased from accessoriesforfragrances.com, so you can simply add an atomizer and cut to size the fit these bottles. I would recommend this sample set to anyone interested in the line – it’s hugely generous and a great way to give extensive attention rather than a brief opinion from a small sample.

I’ve had a sample of this for a while and will occasionally dab it on and enjoy it, but I’ve never really paid close attention to it until now.

Fleur de Liane opens up with luscious green notes. Imagine walking through a path surrounded by lilies in the morning after the first sun is hitting them. The smell of grass being mowed and the air filled with kicked up pollen and earth that you can taste. Though I can’t find it listed in the published notes, I get a distinct honeysuckle note (perhaps just the combo of lily and magnolia) that is strong and persistent. As it transitions, some of the melon notes come through, but not in a way I’m used to. There’s a stickiness to it, like pulling the flower off a honeysuckle vine to suck the liquid from it… jammy and tart, like a green apple Jolly Rancher.

It mellows to a soft, nicely crafted floral with the backdrop of crushed green vines with a velvety feel and a touch of earthy vetiver to keep it standing. It is in line with L’Artisan’s transparent feel, but it is by no means invisible. The dry down holds some great surprises – you’ll find some of the spice reminiscent of the pink pepper in Timbuktu, another from the Travel Series, and some of the zing similar to Piment Brulant’s opening. Duchafour’s signature is quite apparent. There is great presence all the way into the dry down in this; the evolution is pretty remarkable. I think this could certainly be unisex and anyone looking for a mouth-watering floral with crushed green notes on a bed of spices should add this to their list to try. The opening may lean slightly more to the feminine side, but the development of it moves it neatly back into the middle.

I don’t think this has gotten as much praise as others in their line, but don’t let that deter you. It’s a great release and is more than worthy of attention.

I’m sampling The Ten Party by The Party today. I had expected quite a bit from this due to the price point and their level of supposed exclusivity. There’s a great story behind it though – 10 philanthropic friends that the scent was dedicated to for their commitment to brotherhood. They even all wore this for a year before it was released to the public. The packaging looks to be pretty spectacular as well, with a sterling silver cap and silk coverings.

Unfortunately, I’m finding the actual scent to be somewhat of a letdown. It seems to follow a very traditional pattern of bright citrus + lavender opening, a pleasant transition through the middle with the warmth of clove and cypress, and a dry down of nondescript woods, some oakmoss, and a touch of patchouli. The whole ride is pretty fleeting and somewhat confused. They claim to use only natural oils, which the scent would seem to confirm, but that also means its lasting power is a bit compromised.

Overall, it is a very nice scent, but it’s one that’s been done before and done better, at that. At a few points in its progression, it brings to mind Parfums de Nicolai’s New York, but a stripped down and much lighter version with a sweeter, less obtuse approach.  I checked their published notes, and they actually do share quite a few. I suppose if New York is too much for you (it can be pretty intense), The Ten Party might be a good alternative that has some of the same feeling, but in a more reserved and modern fashion.