HS3

It’s a pity, but Serge Lutens has decided to pull Douce Amere from its export line, and only offer it exclusively as a Paris bell jar. I’m sure they have their reasoning behind all of their marketing, whether it be their exclusive Paris line, or single year limited exports, but I don’t like it. When I heard that Douce Amere was being pulled, I stopped putting off the purchase and emailed my SA at Barney’s to have her hold me a bottle until their next bag event.

Douce Amere is a gorgeous scent. It combines the familiar sweet, hay-like base of Serge Lutens that is reminiscent of the drydown of Chergui with a crisp, icy anise opening. It has a slight boozy feel to it in the top notes that might remind you of a whiff of Chartreuse liquor. It settles into a comforting, velvety middle with signature SL cues. It’s a great addition to the line, and a pity that it’ll be infinitely harder to get (for those of us outside of Paris).

I guess a set of photos of one tan labeled Serge Lutens is not much different than the next, but Serge does have beautiful bottles, so I figured it couldn’t hurt. Here are just a few that I snapped – nothing fancy, but for those new to Serge, it’s a nice way of checking out the bottle!

This is the first in the Parfum d’Empire line and one of the first few that I’ve tried in this intriguing line. So far, I’ve only tried a few from Parfum d’Empire, but I’ve been impressed with all of them so far.

Here are the notes for Eau de Gloire:
lemon, bergamot, rosemary, orange, neroli, lavender, tea, anise, licorice, leather, tobacco, incense, immortelle, oakmoss, cistus.

This was done in honor of Napoleon Bonaparte, due to his love for fragrance. Actually, the entire line is based on the premise of mixing history with perfume. It may be a bit gimmicky, but I like it, so I guess it got me.

For the longest time, immortelle was not one of my favorite notes. It always smelled a bit off for some reason. I couldn’t describe it, but never felt comfortable with it. My tastes have done a huge 180 since then though and I’ve been thoroughly enjoying it lately (Eau Noire is perfection in a tall, green bottle). I was really intrigued by the idea of immortelle playing with the icy anise note here so had to try it. It is blended really well – it’s not easy for me to really pick out any certain notes but right off the bat, I’m treated to a gorgeous melange of woodsy tobacco, leather and anise (but more natural, less like the icy licorice style), with hints of immortelle, all introduced by a crisp, yet velvety citrus curtain that immediately begins its development and parts to reveal the heart. I had somewhat expected a sharp licorice type opening for some reason, but was pleasantly surprised with a rich natural blend that incorporates everything into a wonderfully smooth scent. Nothing is fighting for center stage, and I never felt like anything was dominating the rest. Part of me wishes there was a touch more immortelle presence in this, but I think if it did, it might throw the whole thing off kilter. The leather in the base is perfect, reminding me of a similar treatment in China White. This one is a winner – it may have to find its way onto my shelf.