I just realized that I had taken photos of Derring Do a couple weeks back, but forgot to ever post them! I had spent the afternoon at The Galleria in Tyson’s Corner and after an absurdly comical experience in Joseph Bank (the guy I dealt with really reminded me of Gil, the car salesman from The Simpsons), I went over to a shop to do some sniffing. I wanted something light and crisp to have for the upcoming warm months. I had never been able to try any of the scents from Ineke, a niche brand based in San Francisco, and I was pleasantly surprised. Most of the line is somewhat geared towards the more feminine spectrum, but a few were really great unisex fragrances (I recall really liking Field Notes From Paris, as well). I generally don’t go for scents with things like “Rain Notes” in their pyramid, but this one was an exception. It’s not a scent that will reinvent your idea of the genre, but it does what it’s supposed to do perfectly and even gets a lot of compliments. I even got a “now that’s the way a man should smell.” Can’t complain!
Get comfortable – there are bunch of shots here.
I decided to give this one a test this morning as I was heading out the door and put a single shot of it on the back of my hand to enjoy throughout the morning. At first sniff from the bottle (really nice bottles – photos of the set coming soon!) and initial application, it is a nice light summery floral citrus that didn’t really seem to hold any surprises. It has an uplifting white floral opening (listed notes are lotus flower, magnolia, jasmine, olive blooms) with a hint of bergamot and a spike of tart citrus… the description on the Xerjoff site really is spot on. It’s really quite pleasant, but didn’t come across as earth shattering or new.
However, this scent has huge evolution. On my drive to work, it has already begun progressing through a variety of notes and new players were emerging. I was getting what seemed like a chili pepper note and the olive blooms were really coming out as the other initial florals fell back. A few hours into it, that chili pepper note begins to fall back and you’re left with a very fresh osmanthus and citrus. I’m not sure if the Olive Blooms listed in the notes is of the osmanthus variety, but I’m definitely perceiving it that way. I also smell orange blossoms, similar to how they’re treated in By Kilian’s Prelude to Love. It’s extra “clean” smelling – most likely attributable to the choice in musk aroma-chemicals in the base. If smelled up close, you’ll be able to detect just the slightest of creamy undertones that is quite nice and helps to bring it together.Very nice.
Overall, it’s probably my least favorite of the Casamorati series, but I really like the other three. It’s certainly well made and something to put on your sample list if you love bright citrus floral scents that aren’t too feminine… I think it could easily be worn by a man. Actually, the longer it sits on my skin, the more I like it. I’ll definitely give this one a full wear soon.
Check out Sorcery of Scent for Dimitri’s thought on it from a while back.
UPDATE A WHILE LATER – I’m really warming up to this one. After a while on my skin, I’m really liking it.
I’ve had a sample of this for a while and will occasionally dab it on and enjoy it, but I’ve never really paid close attention to it until now.
Fleur de Liane opens up with luscious green notes. Imagine walking through a path surrounded by lilies in the morning after the first sun is hitting them. The smell of grass being mowed and the air filled with kicked up pollen and earth that you can taste. Though I can’t find it listed in the published notes, I get a distinct honeysuckle note (perhaps just the combo of lily and magnolia) that is strong and persistent. As it transitions, some of the melon notes come through, but not in a way I’m used to. There’s a stickiness to it, like pulling the flower off a honeysuckle vine to suck the liquid from it… jammy and tart, like a green apple Jolly Rancher.
It mellows to a soft, nicely crafted floral with the backdrop of crushed green vines with a velvety feel and a touch of earthy vetiver to keep it standing. It is in line with L’Artisan’s transparent feel, but it is by no means invisible. The dry down holds some great surprises – you’ll find some of the spice reminiscent of the pink pepper in Timbuktu, another from the Travel Series, and some of the zing similar to Piment Brulant’s opening. Duchafour’s signature is quite apparent. There is great presence all the way into the dry down in this; the evolution is pretty remarkable. I think this could certainly be unisex and anyone looking for a mouth-watering floral with crushed green notes on a bed of spices should add this to their list to try. The opening may lean slightly more to the feminine side, but the development of it moves it neatly back into the middle.
I don’t think this has gotten as much praise as others in their line, but don’t let that deter you. It’s a great release and is more than worthy of attention.