HS3

The latest scent from PdN is Patchouli Homme. I don’t necessarily think the name is appropriate. While it certainly has plenty of patchouli, there are so many aspects to it that some other notes might feel upstaged by that name. I wore Bois 1920 Extreme today with the Patchouli Homme on the back of my hand to experience through the day. After a few hours with the two, I think they’d even layer pretty nicely. The fern characteristics of the Bois 1920 really mix well with the Patchouli Homme.

PH transforms quite a bit on skin. It opens with a sharp, tenacious lavender note with a very classic feel to it. Only minutes after, it begins to mellow and fill out. Notes of vanilla and amber bring it all together in its heart. The drydown takes another big turn, and the end result to me still heavy on lavender, with wisps of incense and patchouli and a slightly sweetened vanilla base in the background. All in all, it’s a really dynamic, well crafted scent. It behaves through its evolution and has a gorgeous, velvety heart and base. If you’re a fan of lavender, fougeres, or patchouli, it’s certainly worth a try!

Rose Chyprée – it’s incredible. Rose Chyprée is from Andy’s new Mémorables line – and it evokes memories. There’s something about it that’s comforting and familiar. It’s something that once you smell it, you want to keep smelling it, nose glued to it. The GF can’t get enough of it… for her, it makes her think of her horses back home in Arizona. It brings her memories of the desert, hay, flowers, and the scent of a horse, glistening with sweat, along with its worn leather saddle.

It truly is something special… all of Andy’s perfumes are hand made and packaged by him. He is really quite the talented perfumer. (Andy, quit the day job already!) This one has a pound of rose petals steam distilled in each bottle. That’s incredible. It is a small 15ml bottle, but it’s potent and a couple shots are all you need. Andy’s description from his website:

I stuck a regular 1ml sample vial here just to show scale… it’s a tiny little thing.

I got the email from LuckyScent saying they had Back to Black in stock and within minutes, I was on the site to order a sample. I had high hopes for it – I wanted to like it. I’d enjoyed Calice Becker’s previous work with By Kilian, so I was set. I got the samples I’d ordered a few days later and dumped them all out on the table, excited to try all the new goodies.

I sniffed the Back to Black directly from the stick and immediately thought “wow, this is going to be good.” I put a bit on the back of my hand and looked forward to what would come of it. It opened with a jammy berry note, almost so tart and pungent that it could tingle your glands. It then transitioned into a wonderful almond woody note, sweetened by vanilla and honey with a touch of warm patchouli. All seemed to be going well. A good while later into the dry down, the honey started to come out a bit more than I was hoping. It was similar to the honey note in the base of Miel de Bois by Serge Lutens. Not good. Hours later, all that was left was the pulsing honey note, all too close to the smell of a well-used port-a-potty on a hot day. Honey isn’t listed as one of the notes and the Kilian website isn’t updated yet, but it seems like a number of people are getting a big honeyed tobacco note pretty strongly.

I’m going to revisit it in hopes that it was a fluke – perhaps applying it by swiping didn’t let it develop the way it needed to.

Longevity and projection are both huge – just from the bit I had on my hand, I was getting wafts of it all afternoon. Also, from that same little bit on my hand, I could still smell it the next morning and still traces after showering.

I’ll try again soon.

Notes from Luckyscent:
Bergamot, raspberry, blue chamomile, cardamom, coriander, saffron, cedarwood, vanilla, almond, vetiver, cistus labdanum, patchouli, oakmoss.

Chanel (Jacques Polge & Christopher Sheldrake) did it right with this one. This is in the top 5 scents I smelled in 2008.

I would describe it overall as a rich, yet accessible take on patchouli and chocolate. However, there are just so many wonderful aspects all along the way that make it as wonderful as it is. The opening has the peppery tart spray of bitter orange peel with a sweet chocolate undertone. The spices are gritty and light, not ones to hit the back of your throat.. A wonderful patchouli that you wouldn’t necessarily identify unless you knew to look for it emerges with just the slightest powdery feathering. It settles into a rich, warm leathery scent that still retains some of its top notes punch and even has a comforting, classic feel to it. I don’t know many classic Chanels, but the dry down makes me think of a complex scent with such depth a company like this would have produced.

This is really a masterpiece for me. I knew I would end up buying it within minutes of sampling it. I took a sample and wore it that night and the next day and bought a bottle the next afternoon. The bottle is gorgeous and the base of the box doubles as a Chanel stand for the bottle. The packaging is top notch – even the cap is magnetically polarized so that the Chanel logo is horizontal when you put the cap on.

Be sure you love anything you buy from Les Exclusifs line… you’re getting a jug of it. The price may seem daunting at first, but when you account for how much you’re actually getting, it’s no more expensive than any other standard designer scent.

Huge A+ from me.

Olivier Durbano Jade – This opens as dusty mint laden tea leaves. It’s a very lush, earthy mint – not like the smell of common mint flavoring, but rather the smell of the mixture of the soil with the moist mint that grew in the woods behind the house I grew up in. It seems to follow the pattern of Durbano’s previous releases and shares a number of qualities. There’s something about them that actually does bring the image of rock to mind – gritty, dust covered rock. This particular one seems to sit very close and keep its projection at bay. It stays dry and austere with classic notes of vetiver, patchouli and herbs that linger long after the initial mint and tea trip.

Omnia Granato – I’ve read a few places that this is supposed to have some dirty, animalic notes to it. I personally didn’t get much of that on the first few tries. I was pretty excited to try it in anticipation of those animalic notes, but luckily I still like the result quite a bit. What I do get is an initial blast of sweetened musks and vanilla, followed by a smattering of spices and smokey cedar and vanilla. I get a considerable semblance to Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale, but seemingly not quite as complex and a bit sweeter in its drydown. As it settles, a few notes creep out that may be construed as “dirty,” but one might assume much of that claim was included in a PR brief. Either way, it works well.